Sponge life, black coral (the finest in the West Indies), and steep drop-offs into water near the shoreline make St. Croix a snorkeling and diving paradise. The island is home to the largest living reef in the Caribbean, including the fabled north-shore wall that begins in 25 to 30 feet of water and drops to 13,200 feet, sometimes straight down. The St. Croix Water Sports Center rents snorkeling equipment for $20 per day if your hotel doesn't supply it.
Buck Island is a major scuba-diving site, with a visibility of some 100 feet. It also has an underwater snorkeling trail. All the outfitters offer scuba and snorkeling tours to Buck Island.
Other favorite dive sites include the historic Salt River Canyon (northwest of Christiansted at Salt River Bay), which is for advanced divers. Submerged canyons walls are covered with purple tube sponges, deep-water gorgonians, and black coral saplings. You'll see schools of yellowtail snapper, turtles, and spotted eagle rays. We also like the gorgeous coral gardens of Scotch Banks (north of Christiansted), and Eagle Ray (also north of Christiansted), the latter so named because of the rays that cruise along the wall there. Cane Bay is known for its coral canyons.
Davis Bay is the site of the 12,000-foot-deep Puerto Rico Trench. Northstar Reef, at the east end of Davis Bay, is a spectacular wall dive, recommended for intermediate or experienced divers only. The wall here is covered with stunning brain corals and staghorn thickets. At some 50 feet down, a sandy shelf leads to a cave where giant green moray eels hang out.
The ultimate night dive is at the Frederiksted Pier. The old pier was damaged by Hurricane Hugo and torn down to make way for a new one. The heavily encrusted rubble from the old pier remains beneath the new one, carpeted with rainbow-hued sponges and both hard and soft coral, preserving a fantastic night dive where you're virtually guaranteed to see seahorses and moray eels.
At Butler Bay, to the north of the pier on the west shore, three ships were wrecked: the Suffolk Maid, the Northwind, and the Rosaomaira, the latter sitting in 100 feet of water. These wrecks form the major part of an artificial reef system made up mostly of abandoned trucks and cars. This site is recommended for intermediate or experienced divers.
Dive St. Croix, 59 King's Wharf (tel. 800/523-DIVE in the U.S., or 340/778-1522; fax 340/773-7400), operates the 38-foot dive boat Reliance. The staff offers complete instruction, from resort courses through full certification, as well as night dives. A resort course is $85, with a two-tank dive going for $85. Scuba trips to Buck Island cost $75, and dive packages begin at $370 for five dives.
Anchor Dive, Salt River National Park (tel. 800/523-DIVE in the U.S., or 340/778-1522), is known for its trusty boat, Reliance, a 38-foot dive boat. Some of the best scuba-diving courses are offered here, including full PADI certification. You can sign up for the simple resort course at $85, and a dive package with all the works goes for $370, featuring a total of five dives. Most divers opt for the two-tank dive deal at a cost of $85. The most popular trips are, of course, to Buck Island, going at a rate of $75 per person.
Other recommended outfitters include the Cane Bay Dive Shop (tel. 340/773-9913) and St. Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventure (tel. 877/789-7282).
